每家每户都是有配电箱的。在买房后，家中的配电箱都是统一由开发商所设计配置好的标准。但是在搬家前，一些住户打算把家中的配电箱进行改造，这样有两个目的，一个是功能上更丰富一点，还有一点就是更安全。想把家中的配电箱变成一个适合我们使用的设备，我们需要知道家中配电箱实际的回路设计是怎么样的。
一、确定回路数量
两居室家庭配电箱应设一个双极(2P)总闸，七个双极(2P)分闸。七个分闸分别控制：1，全部照明。2，房间插座。3，厨房插座。4，卫生间插座。5，居室(1)空调插座。6，居室(2)空调插座。7，客厅空调插座。一般是这样设置的：
1、每台空调各用一个回路。
2、功率较大的电器设备(如冰箱、烤箱等)可分别设置一个回路。
3、厨房间与卫生间的插座合并一个回路。
4、厨房间、卫生间的照明设备合并一个回路。
5、客厅的插座一个回路。
6、客厅的照明一个回路。
7、所有房间的插座合并一个回路。
8、所有房间的照明合并一个回路。
空调等功率较大的电器设备，配20A的空气开关;普通的插座配16A的空气开关;照明线路配10A的空气开关即可。
63A的漏报可以了。
铺设暗线没有太多需要注意的，一般只要做到横平竖直，事先把需要设置的回路想好即可。
二、确定开关极数
家用开关的极数只有三种：1P，1P+N和2P。2P开关最安全，但是太宽了，配电箱里装不下。所以我们的原则是只在大功率插座回路和主回路使用2P开关，其余开关均选择1P+N——
不选择1P开关，是因为1P开关与1P+N开关的宽度相同，价格差不了太多。而使用1P开关时需要单独配备零排，施工麻烦。而且这样的零线不能切断，有一定的危险性。
三、确定开关功能
家用开关的功能也是三种：无附件(只有短路保护和过载保护功能)、漏电保护附件(增加漏电保护功能)、过欠压脱扣附件(增加过欠压断电功能)。
其中主开关建议使用过欠压脱扣器——建议使用自复位过欠压脱扣器，断电后可以自行合闸。以免用户外出时家里停电，导致恢复供电后自己家不能合闸。
所有插座回路，无论是普通插座回路还是大功率插座回路，都建议使用漏电保护器。
照明回路不需要附件——照明回路电流小、灯具高，即使漏电也没有太大危害。加上现如今的LED灯具质量堪忧，安装漏电附件后反而容易引起跳闸——而且无解。
四、最后套用数据
家用开关有一套固定的参数，型号选择DZ47型或相应的改造型号——DZ47是国际通用型号名称，除此以外，各厂家还出了自己研发的型号。只要能够代替DZ47即可。
额定电流：写作“Cxx”，代表线路中的电流达到xxA时断路器跳闸。
主开关选择32A，40A，60A或63A(必须大于任意一个支路开关);照明回路选择16A或20A;插座回路选择20A或25A;大功率插座选择25A或32A。
框架电流选择与额定电流相同的即可——框架电流写在型号后面，写作“-xx”，代表电流超过xxA时，断路器可能会烧毁。
漏电开关，动作电流值30mA，写作“I△n30mA”或“I△n0.03A”。脱口速度0.1s以内，写作“t≤0.1s”。
设计好回路数量、开关极数等，使用配电箱更加方便一点点。住户把家中的配电箱重新设计改造，在电器使用上面就会更合理和安全。很多住户可能看了上面的内容还是不太懂，那也没关系的，要改造配电箱找资深电工来完成就行啦!这样可以保证配电箱的使用安全!
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